Media Wall Installers in Long Island City

median year homes were built

1954

median year homes were built

built in 2000 or later

11.6%

built in 2000 or later

built before 1960

61.8%

built before 1960

single-family homes

28.1%

single-family homes

in buildings with 5+ units

42.7%

in buildings with 5+ units

mobile homes

0.2%

mobile homes

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2024 1-year, Queens County (Long Island City) (tables B25035, B25034, B25024)

Common wall types

Poured concrete and concrete-block high-rise walls

Where: Waterfront and Court Square towers in Hunters Point and Queens Plaza.

Mounting: Needs a hammer drill and concrete anchors; in-wall cable runs are typically impossible, so surface raceways are common.

Metal-stud and drywall partitions

Where: Interior walls in newer condos and rentals.

Mounting: Use snap toggles rated for the load, or request wood blocking behind drywall.

Brick row houses with plaster or drywall

Where: Historic Hunters Point and Ravenswood blocks.

Mounting: Brick calls for concrete screws or sleeve anchors; plaster must be drilled slowly.

Converted industrial and loft buildings

Where: Former factory and warehouse buildings in Dutch Kills and Long Island City's industrial areas.

Mounting: Walls may be exposed brick or concrete; use masonry anchors and test pilot holes.

Tips before you mount

• Condo towers: nearly all require alteration approval and a contractor COI naming the building and managing agent, often with elevator reservations and work-hour limits. Request the rules before scheduling.
• Concrete walls and columns: use a hammer drill with 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve anchors; many buildings forbid drilling into structural slabs or columns, and post-tension slabs must never be drilled without confirmation.
• Floor-to-ceiling window walls leave limited wall space, and glare matters; plan TV position away from direct sun and use a tilting or full-motion mount to manage glare.
• In metal-stud or plaster partitions with no stud to hit, snap toggles or toggle bolts rated well above the TV and mount weight are the usual choice.
• Hunters Point and Ravenswood row houses are brick with plaster or drywall; test a pilot hole to identify backing before choosing anchors.
• Near the waterfront, balconies and terraces face wind and salt air; outdoor TVs need a weather-rated model and corrosion-resistant fasteners.
• Concealed wiring: NEC 400.12 bars hiding a regular TV power cord inside a wall, so behind-the-TV outlets need an in-wall rated power kit, and HDMI and speaker lines inside the wall should be CL2 or CL3 rated.