Maine has an older, largely wood-frame housing stock: about 33 percent of homes were built before 1960, and many farmhouses and Capes have plaster on lath, uneven framing and little insulation. Log homes, camps and manufactured homes are also part of the mix.

median year homes were built: 1978; median year homes were built
built in 2000 or later: 22.4%; built in 2000 or later
built before 1960: 32.9%; built before 1960
single-family homes: 71.3%; single-family homes
in buildings with 5+ units: 9.5%; in buildings with 5+ units
mobile homes: 8.2%; mobile homes

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2024 1-year (tables B25035, B25034, B25024)

Common wall types

Plaster on lath and old post-and-beam framing

Where: Farmhouses, Capes and village houses built in the 1700s to early 1900s, such as in Wells, Portland and coastal towns.

Mounting: Walls can be uneven, plaster thick and framing irregular. Locate framing carefully, pre-drill slowly, and use toggle bolts where there is no stud. Wire fishing through old walls can hit fire blocking and insulation.

Wood-stud drywall walls

Where: Newer houses and renovated interiors in southern Maine and Portland suburbs.

Mounting: Studs are typically 16 inches on center. Lag into at least two studs.

Log and solid timber walls

Where: Log homes, camps and cabins in rural and lake regions.

Mounting: Solid logs are not drywall: use lag screws or structural screws sized for the log, allow for settling, and mount to a framed interior wall where one exists.

Poured concrete or stone basement walls

Where: Many older houses have fieldstone or concrete foundations.

Mounting: If the wall is framed, mount into studs. Direct mounting into stone or concrete needs masonry anchors into solid material, and dampness should be addressed first.

Light framing in manufactured homes

Where: About 8 percent of Maine housing units are mobile homes.

Mounting: Wall panels are thin and studs may be spaced wider, so the mount must hit framing.

Tips before you mount

Lag the mount into at least two studs (usually 16" on center) with 5/16" lag bolts about 2.5" to 3" long; a full-motion arm puts much more leverage on the wall than a flat mount, so it should never hang on drywall anchors alone.
Plaster and lath: locate framing first and pre-drill slowly; where no stud lines up, use toggle bolts or snap toggles rated for the TV and mount weight rather than plastic plug anchors.
Old farmhouses: studs may be spaced irregularly (not always 16 inches) and walls may be out of plumb. Ask the installer to check with a stud finder and level, and use a mount with some adjustment.
Log and timber walls: use lag or structural screws long enough to bite into solid timber, and plan wire runs in a surface raceway or a framed chase rather than cutting logs.
Hiding wires: the National Electrical Code (NEC 400.12) does not allow a regular TV power cord to run inside the wall. Use an in-wall rated recessed power kit, and choose low-voltage cable rated CL2 or CL3 for in-wall HDMI and speaker runs.
Over a fireplace: check the TV maker's heat limits and measure surface temperature where the screen would sit; heat rises from the firebox, and a mantel or deeper surround can redirect it. Masonry and stone surrounds need masonry anchors, not drywall anchors. Wood stoves also call for clearances: check the stove manufacturer's and the TV maker's limits.
Maine winters bring freeze-thaw cycles and coastal salt: for porches or decks, use outdoor-rated TVs and stainless hardware, and check the TV's operating temperature range.
Before work starts, tell the installer the wall type, the TV size and weight, and the mount type. These change the anchors, labor time and price.

Sources: Census Reporter, ACS 2024 1-year: Maine (B25035, B25034, B25024) · Maine Historic Preservation Commission · Green Building Advisor: Maine pre-1800 post-and-beam house question · Wikipedia: Early Cape houses of Wells, Maine. General guidance only — your installer will confirm the right method for your wall.