Kansas homes are mostly wood-frame houses with drywall, many with brick or stone veneer, and about 32 percent were built before 1960. Basements are common in many parts of the state, and tornado risk shapes how many homeowners think about storm rooms and heavy installs.

median year homes were built: 1976; median year homes were built
built in 2000 or later: 22.7%; built in 2000 or later
built before 1960: 32%; built before 1960
single-family homes: 77%; single-family homes
in buildings with 5+ units: 13.4%; in buildings with 5+ units
mobile homes: 4%; mobile homes

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2024 1-year (tables B25035, B25034, B25024)

Common wall types

Wood-stud drywall walls

Where: Most single-family homes in Wichita, Overland Park, Topeka and Lawrence suburbs.

Mounting: Studs are typically 16 inches on center. Lag into at least two studs for any full-motion arm.

Plaster on lath

Where: Older homes, for example in historic parts of Topeka, Lawrence and Leavenworth.

Mounting: Pre-drill slowly and use toggle bolts where studs do not line up.

Basement poured concrete or block walls

Where: Finished basements, especially in the eastern part of the state, and in-ground storm rooms.

Mounting: Mount to studs in a framed wall when there is one; direct mounting requires masonry anchors. Do not drill into a certified safe room wall without checking the manufacturer's guidance.

Brick, block and stone

Where: Brick veneer homes, stone fireplace surrounds and older masonry houses.

Mounting: Use concrete screws or sleeve anchors into solid brick or block faces, not mortar joints.

Light framing in manufactured homes

Where: About 4 percent of Kansas housing units are mobile homes.

Mounting: Wall panels are thin, so the mount must hit framing, and heavy mounts may need added blocking.

Tips before you mount

Lag the mount into at least two studs (usually 16" on center) with 5/16" lag bolts about 2.5" to 3" long; a full-motion arm puts much more leverage on the wall than a flat mount, so it should never hang on drywall anchors alone.
Plaster and lath: locate framing first and pre-drill slowly; where no stud lines up, use toggle bolts or snap toggles rated for the TV and mount weight rather than plastic plug anchors.
Basements and storm rooms: for a framed wall over concrete, lag into the studs. For bare concrete or block, use 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve anchors. Ask before drilling into a manufactured safe room, since penetrations can void its rating.
Brick, block and concrete: use 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve or wedge anchors with a hammer drill and masonry bit, drilling into solid brick or the face shell of block rather than mortar joints where possible.
Hiding wires: the National Electrical Code (NEC 400.12) does not allow a regular TV power cord to run inside the wall. Use an in-wall rated recessed power kit, and choose low-voltage cable rated CL2 or CL3 for in-wall HDMI and speaker runs.
Over a fireplace: check the TV maker's heat limits and measure surface temperature where the screen would sit; heat rises from the firebox, and a mantel or deeper surround can redirect it. Masonry and stone surrounds need masonry anchors, not drywall anchors.
Kansas summers are hot and storms bring hail and wind: for a patio TV, use an outdoor-rated model rated for the local temperature range and keep it under a roof, with corrosion-resistant hardware.
Before work starts, tell the installer the wall type, the TV size and weight, and the mount type. These change the anchors, labor time and price.

Sources: Census Reporter, ACS 2024 1-year: Kansas (B25035, B25034, B25024) · FEMA P-361 and P-320: safe room guidance (U.S. GPO Bookstore). General guidance only — your installer will confirm the right method for your wall.