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Walls in Illinois homes: what to know before mounting a TV or building a media wall

Illinois has a large amount of older housing: over a third of units were built before 1960, and the median home was built in 1971. Chicago and its older suburbs are known for solid brick bungalows, two-flats and greystones with plaster interiors, while newer suburbs use wood-frame construction, and Chicago has many high-rise concrete and metal-stud condos.

median year homes were built
1971
median year homes were built
built in 2000 or later
18.4%
built in 2000 or later
built before 1960
36.7%
built before 1960
single-family homes
64.6%
single-family homes
in buildings with 5+ units
22%
in buildings with 5+ units
mobile homes
2.2%
mobile homes

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2024 1-year (tables B25035, B25034, B25024)

Common wall types

Double-wythe brick walls with plaster

Where: Chicago bungalows and brick two-flats built from the early 1900s through the 1930s.

Mounting: These are solid masonry walls with plaster inside, not stud walls, so the mount must be anchored into brick with masonry anchors or into furring strips if present; plaster can crack if drilled carelessly.

Greystones and limestone-faced brick

Where: Boulevard neighborhoods in Chicago such as Logan Square, Kenwood and East Garfield Park.

Mounting: Greystone fronts are a limestone veneer over multi-layer common brick; avoid drilling into decorative stone and treat interior walls as brick and plaster.

Wood-frame stud walls with drywall

Where: Newer suburban homes in the collar counties, and many townhomes.

Mounting: Studs are typically 16 inches on center; lag into at least two studs.

Poured concrete or block basement walls

Where: Common in Illinois houses, including finished basements used for home theaters.

Mounting: Use concrete screws or sleeve anchors into the foundation wall, or find studs if the wall is framed; check for moisture.

Concrete and metal-stud high-rises

Where: Downtown Chicago, the Loop, Streeterville and Evanston condo and apartment towers.

Mounting: Use concrete anchors for slabs and columns and toggles or blocking for metal studs; surface raceways and building approvals are typical.

Tips before you mount

  • Brick, block or concrete: anchor into solid material with 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve or wedge anchors using a hammer drill and masonry bit. Drill into solid brick or the face shell of block rather than mortar joints where possible, and do not rely on plaster or furring alone.
  • Plaster over brick or lath: find studs or solid brick first, pre-drill slowly, and use snap toggles when there is no framing; furring strips over brick can look like studs but may be thin.
  • Stud walls: studs are usually 16" on center. Lag the mount into at least two studs with 5/16" lag bolts, typically about 2.5" to 3" long; a full-motion arm puts much more leverage on the wall than a flat mount, so it should never hang on drywall anchors alone.
  • Metal studs (common in apartments and condos): use snap toggles or similar toggle-style anchors rated for the TV and mount weight, or have the installer add wood blocking behind the drywall.
  • Hiding wires: the National Electrical Code (NEC 400.12) does not allow a regular TV power cord to run inside the wall. Use an in-wall rated recessed power kit, and choose low-voltage cables rated CL2 or CL3 for in-wall HDMI and speaker runs. On brick and plaster walls in-wall runs are often impractical, so plan a paintable surface raceway or chase.
  • Over a fireplace: check the TV maker's heat limits and keep the screen out of rising heat; a mantel does not make the wall behind it cooler. Stone or brick surrounds need masonry anchors, not drywall anchors. Many older Chicago homes have decorative or gas-log fireplaces; confirm the flue and heat output.
  • Basements and cold climate: use concrete anchors in poured walls, check for moisture, and use outdoor-rated TVs and corrosion-resistant hardware on porches and decks to handle freeze-thaw cycles and humid summers.
  • Condos, co-ops and rentals: ask the association or landlord whether drilling into walls or concrete needs approval, and get the installer's certificate of insurance (COI) naming the association before work day. Many Chicago-area buildings are condos or co-ops that require approval and a COI. Before work starts, tell the installer the wall type (studs, plaster, brick, block or concrete), the TV size and weight, and the mount type. These change the anchors, labor time and price.

Sources: Census Reporter, ACS 2024 1-year: Illinois (B25035, B25034, B25024) · Chicago Bungalow Association: The Chicago two-flat · Chicago Bungalow Association: Tracing your bungalow's brick. General guidance only — your installer will confirm the right method for your wall.