Iowa has one of the older housing stocks in the country: about 36 percent of homes were built before 1960, so plaster walls and older framing are common. Most houses are wood-frame with basements, and poured concrete or block foundation walls are typical in finished lower levels.

median year homes were built: 1973; median year homes were built
built in 2000 or later: 23.9%; built in 2000 or later
built before 1960: 36.1%; built before 1960
single-family homes: 76.4%; single-family homes
in buildings with 5+ units: 14.6%; in buildings with 5+ units
mobile homes: 3.2%; mobile homes

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2024 1-year (tables B25035, B25034, B25024)

Common wall types

Wood-stud drywall walls

Where: Most homes built after about 1950 in Des Moines, Cedar Rapids, Davenport, Iowa City and suburban areas.

Mounting: Studs are typically 16 inches on center. Lag heavy TVs and full-motion arms into at least two studs.

Plaster on lath

Where: Early 20th-century and older homes, such as in historic neighborhoods of Des Moines, Dubuque and Burlington.

Mounting: Plaster can crack or crumble when drilled carelessly. Pre-drill slowly, find framing, and use toggle bolts where there is no stud.

Basement foundation walls

Where: Finished basements across the state, where winter freeze depths call for full basement foundations.

Mounting: Wall may be framed in front of poured concrete or block; mount into those studs when possible. Direct mounting needs masonry anchors, and the wall should be dry before finishing.

Brick and masonry

Where: Older brick homes and fireplace surrounds.

Mounting: Use masonry anchors in solid brick, not mortar joints, and keep heavy mounts off thin veneer.

Light framing in manufactured homes

Where: About 3 percent of Iowa housing units are mobile homes.

Mounting: Wall panels are thin and studs may be spaced wider, so the mount must hit framing.

Tips before you mount

Lag the mount into at least two studs (usually 16" on center) with 5/16" lag bolts about 2.5" to 3" long; a full-motion arm puts much more leverage on the wall than a flat mount, so it should never hang on drywall anchors alone.
Plaster and lath: locate framing first and pre-drill slowly; where no stud lines up, use toggle bolts or snap toggles rated for the TV and mount weight rather than plastic plug anchors.
Basements: lag into studs of the framed wall over the foundation; on bare poured concrete or block, use 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve anchors into the solid face. Check for moisture first, because a finished basement with seepage can ruin a media wall.
Brick, block and concrete: use 1/4" concrete screws or 3/8" sleeve or wedge anchors with a hammer drill and masonry bit, drilling into solid brick or the face shell of block rather than mortar joints where possible.
Hiding wires: the National Electrical Code (NEC 400.12) does not allow a regular TV power cord to run inside the wall. Use an in-wall rated recessed power kit, and choose low-voltage cable rated CL2 or CL3 for in-wall HDMI and speaker runs.
Over a fireplace: check the TV maker's heat limits and measure surface temperature where the screen would sit; heat rises from the firebox, and a mantel or deeper surround can redirect it. Masonry and stone surrounds need masonry anchors, not drywall anchors.
Iowa has wide temperature swings: outdoor TVs need an outdoor-rated model with a suitable temperature range and corrosion-resistant hardware, and should be protected or brought in for the coldest weather per the manufacturer's guidance.
Before work starts, tell the installer the wall type, the TV size and weight, and the mount type. These change the anchors, labor time and price.

Sources: Census Reporter, ACS 2024 1-year: Iowa (B25035, B25034, B25024) · FEMA P-361 and P-320: safe room guidance (U.S. GPO Bookstore). General guidance only — your installer will confirm the right method for your wall.